Dolly's Bike Blog

March 26: Fort Hancock to Van Horn, Texas

Whoever said the prevailing winds blow from west to east has never been in west Texas.

Yesterday, we rode south south east and the wind was at our face. Today we rode east south east and the wind was still in our face. It makes for a long hard day!

Left Fort Hancock, saying goodby to the border fence for a while, though we saw plenty of Border Patrol cars most of the day.

. Brown line across photo is the fence.

First 20 miles took over 2 hours, due to the force of the wind. We stopped briefly in Esperanza (Hope), hoping for relief, but no such luck.

And there was occasional dust blowing.

We spent 2.5 miles on I-10, discovering that the shoulder had been grooved – not a pleasant experience. The remainder of the route into Sierra Blanca was along a frontage road, with good surface and virtually no traffic, alas still headwinds.

Enjoyed the stop for a Subway sandwich in Sierra Blanca before facing the final 32 miles of the day, 24 along the frontage road. While my head was mostly down to fight the wind, I did notice this mountainside silhouette, and wondered if that was a smile or a smirk?

Just before heading back onto the interstate, passed American Talc- we had been able to see this facility from several miles back.

Nine miles on I-10 to get into Van Horn, about 2 of them uphill, then a nice gentle downhill to end the day. This shoulder was smooth, with occasional debris. Did lose an hour along the way!

My roommate tonight is Marilyn from New Zealand. She is traveling in the U.S., Egypt, England and Spain for the next 9 months!

Total 75 miles today, average 9.1 mph.

No WiFi in Fort Hancock tonight. Only 46 miles from El Paso, but headwind all day. Details tomorrow.

March 25: El Paso to Fort Hancock, TX

In our nightly map meeting, Carol told us this would be an easy day, and to be sure to stop and see the old missions along the way. Donna, my riding partner, and I agreed to be good tourists. (I thought it was nice to have a short easy day in honor of my birthday.)

Off we went on the Mission Trail.

Our first stop was the Ysleta Mission, reopened in 1851. The statues on the inside are covered since it is Lent.

Right around the corner was Speaking Rock Casino, run by the Tigua Indians.

We tried to stop at the Tigua Indiana Cultural Center, but alas it was closed. Did like this statue out front, as they have native dance performances other times during the week.

Next stop was the Socorro Mission. A nice couple noticed bikers looking around and opened it up for us.

Sadly we couldn’t get inside the San Elizario Mission, though it is a beautiful building.

We noticed a truck parked nearby and stopped to investigate. We met Roberto, the bootmaker. The shop was closed but he was working on a pair of shoes. We called him Mr. Condor, as the boot shop was called Condor Boots.

As we left the Mission Trail, we realized the wind, blowing straight in our faces. Stopped briefly to chat with a gentleman whose family does aluminum casting, which they ship all over the world.

Stopped in Fabens for a quick lunch, then on to Tornillo. Just east of Tornillo, my bicycle computer showed 1,000 miles, about 1/3 of the total tour.

Our route was now along the Texas Mountain Trail, a hint of things to come.

In case you don’t believe the wind, check the flag direction relative to my bike’s direction.

Finally arrived in Fort Hancock; no town sign so I took a photo of the local post office.

Angie’s Restaurant was recommended where we enjoyed delicious apple pie a la mode and met Street.

Street, a US Airways pilot, is married to a local woman whose family is in the cotton business. He was able to answer questions about the border fence (on and off in different areas nearby), and the unexplained bodies of water (retention lakes, holding water until needed by the farmers). Fields which we have seen all tilled will be planted with cotton by early April.

Linda prepared chicken tetrazzini as my requested birthday meal, and everyone sang Happy Birthday. Even the moon was full in my honor.

Roommate tonight was my riding partner Donna Toothman from Los Gatos, CA.

46 miles total, average 9.3 mph.

March 24: Las Cruces, NM to El Paso, TX

I have been thinking about this day for several months, the day we would bike into El Paso. When I signed up for this tour, I noted that we would be in El Paso for my 65th birthday (tomorrow). I asked permission to deviate from the tour cue sheet, arranged for personal sag support, and studied the map.

The ride today was in memory of my parents Hank and ‘Tommy’ Morse and in honor of my bike friend Don K.

It was 35 degrees when we left Las Cruces this morning, with a southeast wind (we were headed southeast). I quickly diverted to Old Mesilla for a brief stop, encountering this Palm Sunday procession from the local Catholic Church.

There was much more to see in the Plaza, but I needed to stick to a schedule. I rode with the group until mile 30, past these wineries and through this canopy of pecan trees.

Sadly, again crossed the dry Rio Grande.

While the group continued south, I turned east, intending to climb over the Transmountain Road. Construction was underway, but I ignored the No Bicycles sign and kept on riding, up to 5,280 feet.

Shortly after cresting the mountain, I met up with Bertha and Ceci, who had had to take a detour trip downhill in search of a restroom.

After hugs, I continued downhill and warmed up in their car while eating lunch. Then it was on to the cemetery, to visit with Mom and Dad. I’m not sure when, if ever, I’ll be back in El Paso, so this visit was especially bittersweet. It has been just over a year since we closed up the house; and Mom has been gone for 15 months.

I wandered through another construction zone and pedaled to our hotel for tonight, Comfort Inn on Yarbrough. Last few miles, I knew I was losing air, but made it, then had to change the rear tire and tube – made it almost 1,000 miles before my first flat tire.

Quick shower then delightful birthday dinner with my ‘care sisters’ – great ladies!

Total 68 miles, average 10.9 mph.. Two miles more than the cue sheet route, with the mountain climb on my route, but not theirs.